Removing Blossoms

Removing the flower stalks on newly set plants results in earlier and increased runnering. The blossoms should be removed as soon as they appear.

Spacing and Row Width

A serious fault of the wide matted row is that too many plants can develop. If this happens, yield and berry size are reduced because of crowding and competition for water, nutrients and light. Also, pollination may be poor in crowded rows. Maintain a spacing of 10 to 15 cm between runner plants. Remove all surplus runners after the desired spacing has been reached. The early runners produce the most fruit.

A narrow plant row of 45 cm is recommended. This width allows easy weeding and harvesting. In comparison to wider rows, it produces larger fruit and is usually less infected with foliar and fruit diseases. Rows should be narrowed, if necessary, in early October of the planting year.

Mulching

Strawberry plants must be mulched to prevent winter damage. If plants are unprotected, low winter temperatures injure roots, fruit buds and crown tissues. Alternate freezing and thawing of the soil may heave the plants and break the roots. Plants with damaged root systems suffer for moisture during the harvest period.

Furthermore, unmulched plants will begin to grow too early in the spring and early blossoms and leaves may be subject to frost damage. Covering the plants with a light-weight cloth or row cover can give a few degrees of frost protection from late frosts.

Oat and rye straw are ideal for mulch. Straw sometimes contains grain and weed seeds that are likely to grow and become troublesome in the spring. Select straw that is free of grain and weed seeds. Do not use old hay because it usually contains too many weed seeds.

Time of mulching is important! It is recommended that you apply the mulch after the first hard frost. A light frost will not hurt the plants, but they should be protected from temperatures below -9°C. The exact temperatures at which injury will occur varies for each plant.

The older, larger plants show greater resistance to injury than do the younger or weaker plants. Much of the so-called blackroot and root rot of strawberries is started by winter injury to the roots. Early spreading of mulch, before the plants have become fully dormant, may cause severe damage to leaves and crown.

Mid November seems to be a good date to apply the mulch, but in mild years a later date is preferable. By this time, the plants have usually been exposed to several frosty nights, growth has stopped, and there is little danger of injury or smothering. Spread the mulch uniformly over the rows of plants. A mulch that is 5 cm thick when settled, will provide the necessary protection.

Remove mulch from the plants in the spring when new leaf growth begins and foliage starts to turn light yellow. Do not remove all mulch. Leave one-third of the mulch over the bed; the plants will grow up through it. This will help to control weed growth and keep the berries clean during harvest. Place excess mulch in the row aisles. It can be used again to protect the plants if frost conditions threaten.

Renovating

Strawberry plantings can be maintained for 5 years or more if properly managed. Start renovating the day after picking is finished. First, mow off the foliage with a lawnmower. Ensure that the blade is set high enough to avoid damaging the crowns. Leaves should be removed or tilled into the aisles.

Narrow the rows to 45 cm and then thin plants within the row leaving a space of 10 to 15 cm between plants. This is a good time to remove any weeds, particularly grasses, in the rows. Apply a balanced fertilizer to the rows, such as 10-10-10 at 300 g per 6 m row, then spread fine soil or compost to a depth of 1 cm in the row. Irrigate to promote fertilizer uptake and to stimulate growth. Rigorous renovation with good weed control will extend the life of your strawberry patch many years.

Pest Control

The important pests which attack strawberries are fungal diseases such as leaf spot, leaf scorch, mildew, and fruit rot, and insects such as weevils, plant bugs, and mites. A good measure of disease control can be attained through proper sanitation, by not allowing the planting to become too dense, and by picking all fruit before they become over-ripe. For chemical controls, consult the Home Garden Protection Guide for Strawberries - AAC Pub. 1001.

A well grown matted row will produce a large quantity of good quality strawberries. Straw mulch between the rows serves to conserve moisture, suppress weeds and keep the fruit clean.

In recent years in suburban areas, raccoons have become major pests of strawberries. Annoyingly, they pick berries one or two days before you would consider them fully ripe. Although difficult to control, raccoons can be excluded by enclosing the planting with netting.

Yield

A 6 m row of vigorous plants that is 45 cm wide and in which the plants are not over-crowded, should produce 15 to 20 kg, or 25 to 35 quarts of strawberries.

<< Previous    1  [2]  3  4    Next >>