Growing Pears

Description of Pear Tree Varieties

Plant two varieties for good pollination. Plant on 15 feet (4.5 m) centers for dwarf varieties and 20 to 25 feet (6 to 7.5 m) for standard size trees. Requires little maintenance. Showy display during spring bloom.

Choose a planting site with full sun exposure and average to rich soil that has a pH of 6.0 of 6.5 (slightly acidic). Pears will tolerate poorly drained soil better than most other fruit trees.

Dig a hole for each tree that is no deeper than the root ball, and about twice as wide. When you dig the soil out of the hole, pile it on a tarp or piece of plywood so it’s easier to get it back in the hole.

You may mix in up to one-third by volume compost, peat moss, or other organic matter. Most of what goes back in the planting hole should be native soil. This is particularly important in heavy soils. There is no need to add fertilizer to the hole or to the backfill soil.

Pear trees may be sold bare-root or in containers. If purchasing bare-root nursery stock, closely examine the root system and remove encircling roots or 'J'-shaped roots that could eventually strangle the trunk. For containerized trees, inspect the root systems for encircling woody roots.

If woody roots are wrapped around in a circle, straighten them or make several vertical cuts through the root ball prior to planting. This may seem destructive, but it actually helps the plant produce a stronger root system and prevents the formation of girdling roots that eventually weaken the tree.

Position each tree so that the graft union (identifiable as a swelling several inches above the root system) is 2 to 4 inches above the soil line. If the graft union is placed close to or below the soil line, the scion will take root, causing a semi-dwarf tree to grow to full size.

Spread the roots of bare-root stock, making sure none are bent. Have someone help you get the tree standing up straight. Begin adding the backfill soil, removing air pockets as you go.

After the hole is filled, tamp gently and water thoroughly to remove air pockets. The soil may settle an inch or two. If this happens, add more soil. Throughout the life of the tree, you should water its root zone thoroughly during the growing season whenever there is a dry spell. Ideally, the tree should receive one inch of water from rainfall and/or irrigation every week from May through August.

Apply wood chip mulch four inches deep in a three foot circular area around the tree. Keep the chips away from the trunk of the tree. The mulch will keep weeds and lawn grass from competing with the tree for water and nutrients, while also contributing organic matter to the soil and moderating soil temperatures in the root zone. Reapply the mulch every few years as it breaks down.

 It’s a good idea to stake the tree for the first few years. Either a wooden or metal stake will work. It should be six to ten feet long, and pounded two feet into the ground. Use a wide piece non-abrasive material to fasten the tree to the stake. Narrow fastenings such as wire or cord may cut into the thin bark.

Planting time is a good time to install a tree guard to protect your tree from winter injury and bark chewing by small mammals. One type of tree guard is a plastic spiral. These exclude voles (“meadow mice”) and rabbits, preventing them from feeding on the bark.

The white plastic also reflects sunlight from the trunk, which helps prevent the trunk from heating up on a cold, sunny winter day. If the bark temperature gets above freezing, water in the conductive tissue under the bark becomes liquid and begins to flow through the cells.

When the sun goes down or behind a cloud, the liquid water suddenly freezes, damaging the cells and sometimes killing all the conductive tissue on one side of the trunk.

Young pear trees should be trained (pruned ) to develop a structure that will best be able to support the weight of their fruit. Pear trees should be trained to have a central leading trunk and a shape similar to an apple tree.

If fire blight is a major problem in your area, train your pear trees to have multiple trunks. This way, if your tree becomes infected, you can remove the infected wood and the tree will survive and bear fruit on its other trunks.

Pears are uniquely susceptible to an insect called psylla-a tiny red or green insect that sucks juice from fruit. As psyllas eat they secrete a honey-like substance that attracts a particular type of black, sooty mold. This mold looks similar to fire blight, but washes off.

Too much fertilizer and over pruning can encourage both problems. Branch spreaders increase air circulation and train branches while minimizing the need for pruning, and fertilizers should be applied only sparingly in the spring of each year.

Pears should be harvested when they reach a mature size and still feel hard. They should be light green in color and separate easily from the fruit spur (point of attachment).

Let them continue to ripen at room temperature for 5 to 7 days before eating them. Depending on the variety, pears will keep in the refrigerator for 2 weeks and even longer at slightly colder temperatures 31º to 32º F (0 C).

Popular Varieties

AYERS Small to medium yellow fruit with a red blush. Excellent fresh-eating quality, almost free of grit cells. Resistant to fire blight. Pollinator required. Ripens mid-August.

HOOD - Very low chilling variety. Good pollinator for other low-chilling varieties. Yellow-green fruit is fair quality. Ripens August.

KIEFFER - Blight resistant. Strong tree well adapted to wide range of soil and climatic conditions. Consistent producer. Fruit medium to large, golden yellow with red tint. Excellent for baking and preserving. Store fruit for 2 weeks after harvest for maximum quality. Ripens in mid August.

ORIENT - Blight resistant, very vigorous, spreading tree. Round, very large fruit. Fruit is yellowish with red blush. Creamy white flesh with juicy, melting texture good for fresh eating. Late maturing variety.

PINEAPPLE - Very large russet fruit is firm and keeps well. Pineapple flavor, good quality. Heavy producer. Blooms early. High fireblight resistance. Ripens mid-late August.