Growing Leeks
With a more delicate and sweeter flavor than onions, leeks add a subtle touch to recipes without overpowering the other flavors
that are present. Although leeks are available throughout the year they are in season from the fall through the early part of spring when
they are at their best.
Leeks are related to onions, shallots and scallions to which they bear a resemblance. They look like large scallions having a very small bulb
and a long white cylindrical stalk of superimposed layers that flows into green, tightly wrapped, flat leaves.
Leeks have been cultivated since at least 3000 BC, and they are native to the broad region stretching from Israel to India. Relished
throughout Europe. They have been cultivated for so long that their beginnings are uncertain.
Most leeks require a long growing season of about 120-150 days and need a minimum of eight hours of bright sunlight daily. They prefer a
slightly acid soil, with a pH of 6.0-6.8, but will grow well in even a slightly alkaline soil.
In northern climates, start leeks inside in late February or March. For best results, transplants should be no more than 10-15 weeks old when
set out in the garden. Harden off the plants for 5-7 days before transplanting by putting them in a cold frame. If you don't have a cold frame,
set them outside for longer periods each day while returning them to the shelter of your home or garage at night.
Transplant leeks as soon as early spring weather has stabilized and daytime temperatures are at least 45 F (7 C) Plant them 2-6
in.(5 to 15 cm) apart with 12-36 in.(30 to 95 cm) between rows. Trim the roots on the transplants to 1 in.(2.5 cm) to facilitate
transplanting, if necessary.
Leek leaves consistently emerge opposite each other, directly above the previous leaf. Two in.(5 cm) spacing works well if plants
are set out so the leaves are parallel to each other, like rungs on a ladder. This will keep the leaves from growing into each other plus make
the best use of space, light and air circulation.
For long white stems, plant leeks in furrows or hill them. Set transplants at the bottom of a furrow, 5-6 in.(12 to 15 cm) deep. As the
plants develop, raise the soil level along the stems up to the leaves, gradually filling the furrow. Or, hill leeks by adding compost or similar
mulch material around the plants several times during the growing season.
A transplant solution of half strength 20-20-20 or 10-10-10 fertilizer will get them off to a good start. Mid-summer, side dress with a
balanced fertilizer such as 10-10-10 at a rate of one cup per 10 ft.( 3 m) row.
Leek roots are fiberous and shallow so take care not to damage them by hoeing close to the plant.
Water leeks thoroughly every week. Excess moisture promotes fungal disease.
HARVESTLeeks are fully developed when the stem diameter exceeds 1 in.(2.5 cm). Some smaller varieties mature at ½ -¾ in.(15 to 20
mm) diameter. A quality leek should have a firm, white stem more than 3 in.(7.5 cm) long. Swelling at the base, called "bulbing," is
undesirable. Unlike their onion and shallot cousins, leek tops do not die back as the crop matures. The top growth, called the flag, should be
dark blue green.
Harvest leeks by either gently twisting and pulling them from the earth or digging and lifting them. The tops are entirely edible but since
the leaves can be quite long, trim them to a more manageable length at harvest, if desired.
Leeks are fairly frost tolerant, so you can delay harvest until after the first few light frosts. Because they're biennial, they won't set
seed until the second year. However, they may not over-winter well in our climate (USDA zones 3 and 4) without a protective mulch.
VARIETIES TO GROWGiant Musselburgh is an open pollinated heirloom variety which is widely available and produces an excellent crop.
Other popular giant leek varieties include: Large American Flag, Elephant and Titan. King Richard is a smaller diameter, earlier cultivar. Giant
Musselburgh and Elephant are considered to be the best "keepers."
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