Compost Types

Figs are greedy plants and if the compost or soil is too rich they will just grow, and grow but you wont see much fruit! Compost should not be coir or peat based as this dries out too quickly and is difficult to wet once it has dried out. Instead you should use a soil based compost such as John Innes or a top soil.

This basic mixture should be 'thinned' with the addition of 10% small rubble pieces, old bricks can be smashed in to 1 inch pieces or alternatively bits of concrete or large grit can be added, to this you should add 10% peat or leaf mould for moisture retention.

Planting Position

Figs are naturally a Mediterranean fruit tree and will thrive on the hottest spot in the garden. They are particularly suited to growing against a south facing wall in the shape of a fan. To grow this way attach 3 or 4 upright 3inch x 3inch wood uprights to the wall spaced at 2.5 feet intervals, between these uprights you will need to fix strong wires at around 9 inches apart starting at 12 inches above ground level and working up the wall until you have a series of horizontal wires right up to the top of the wall.

Plant the fig in the centre of this trellis around 9 inches away from the wall base. As the tree grows the side shoots should be tied to the horizontal wires to form a fan shape. You can expect a fig to reach maturity in around three to four years but it will carry fruit from the first year on.

Pruning Fig Trees

Pruning is best carried out in the spring before new growth starts, figs fruit on last years growth so you shouldn't prune all of last years braches off or you wont get fruit. The best way to prune is to simply remove any thin, damaged or overcrowded branches to keep the fan open which will allow sunlight and air through the tree to ensure good fruit formation and ripening.

At the same time as pruning any large fruit embryos that were left over from last year should be removed, this may seem strange but only the tiny fruit embryos that were formed late the previous season will have survived, anything over the size of a pea that is on the tree in March is unlikely to develop fully but will take the strength from the other fruits.

These embryo figs still on the tree in April will not ripen, damage caused by frosts can clearly be seen on the fruit but the tree will attempt to mature them at the expense of smaller more protected embryos. These figs should be removed to prevent this waste of energy.

Watering Figs

Figs require copious amounts of water through the growing season and depending on your your pot size and growing medium will require watering daily. If the tree becomes dry at the roots then it is likely that the developing embryo figs will drop off.

Feeding Figs

During their first year no feeding should be given as there should be sufficient in the compost for their needs, during the second year a balanced feed such as growmore can be applied to the surface in spring and standard soluble feed given every 6 weeks. Higher potash feed can be given in the late summer to aid the developing figs ripen.

Temperature Requirements

Most figs are hardy in the UK but in severe weather the shoot tips and over wintering embryo fruits may die. In areas north of Yorkshire it is recommended that some protection is given to fan trained figs, this can take the shape of a loose net over the entire fan and straw or other similar material packed between the branches. Pot gown figs can be brought in doors in to a cool, light room or placed in a more sheltered position in the garden.

Flowering

Figs don't really have flowers as such, the flower is actually inside the fruit! Close examination of a fig fruit will reveal a tiny hole opposite the stem end. In their natural environment a tiny wasp enters this hole and pollinates the 'flower' within. Figs don't need pollinating to produce fruit so you shouldn't worry about this aspect of growing - but it was worth mentioning.

Propagating Figs

Figs are easy to propagate using cuttings taken from ripened wood. Small shoots should be removed that are 4 inches long, these should be taken and should include a small piece if the adjoining branch - a 'heel'. Plant them in to small pots of compost consisting of 70% soil based compost, 20% sharp sand and 10% peat.

The pots should be placed over a bottom heat of 20°C to 24°C, they will root within 2 to 3 weeks and can be potted on in to larger pots after 3 months.

Alternatively, cuttings can be taken during the summer using shoots which are semi ripe with a ripe, hardened base using the same technique.