Plants

Use strong, dormant two or three-year-old plants which are free from viruses and diseases. Obtain plants as close to planting time as possible. If necessary, plants will store for short periods in a refrigerator or other cool place. Sprinkle dry roots with water and place bare-rooted plants in plastic bags before storing. Do not leave roots soaking in water or they will die.

If plants must be held for more than one or two weeks, dig a trench in well-drained soil, set plants in the trench, and cover roots with soil. Potted plants should be stored in a cool place. Water the plants if the soil moisture is low.

Planting Method

Plant the dormant blueberry bushes in early spring as soon as the soil can be worked. Prune any broken roots or branches and set the plants 3 to 5 cm deeper than they were grown in the nursery. Spread out the roots and cover them with soil. Firm the soil around the roots, being careful not to cause breakage. Blueberry roots are very fine and must not dry out at any time during planting. Water the bushes thoroughly after planting.

Care of Planting

Blossom Removal

Remove blossoms as they appear during the first and second season. This helps the plants establish quickly and grow more vigorously.

Weed Control and Mulching

Blueberries have a shallow root system which is easily damaged by cultivation or deep hoeing. Mulching the plants with sawdust, wood shavings or clean straw will aid in weed control and help conserve moisture. Make sure the mulch is moist before applying it.

Spread the mulch in a band 60 cm wide, with 30 cm on each side of the plant row. Add mulch to a depth of 5 to 10 cm. Grass, such as creeping red fescue, can be planted and allowed to grow between the mulched bands if the sod is mowed regularly.

As the plants grow larger, gradually widen the mulched area to 60 cm on each side of the bushes. Add mulching material as required to maintain a mulch depth of 5 to 10 cm.

Immediately remove any weeds which grow through the mulch since broadleaf weeds and grasses compete strongly with blueberries for moisture and nutrients. Never allow weeds to produce seed.

Fertilizer

Use fertilizer mixtures which supply nitrogen as ammonium sulphate (when the soil pH is above 5.0) or urea (when the soil pH is below 5.0). Supply potassium in the form of potassium sulphate or sul-po-mag. Avoid muriate of potash, since it contains chloride which can be toxic to blueberries.

Potassium and phosphorus should be applied according to soil test results. In the year following planting, apply 14 to 18 g of nitrogen per highbush blueberry plant. in addition to the potassium and phosphorus. (This rate of nitrogen would be contained in 140 to 180 g of a 10-10-10 fertilizer.) Increase the rate of nitrogen each year by 4 to 6 g per bush until a total of 36 to 48 g per bush is applied.

Apply the fertilizer just prior to budbreak. On sandy soils, apply two-thirds of the nitrogen at budbreak and the other one-third at petal fall. Distribute all fertilizer evenly under the bushes to just beyond the spread of the branches.

Check the soil pH every year or two, especially if plant growth is poor. Iron deficiency is common when the soil pH is too high. Normally, young leaves are a lighter green than older leaves and often have a slight reddish tint. When deficient in iron, young leaves become pale yellow and stunted, and plant growth is poor. If iron deficiency occurs, make every effort to correct the soil pH.

Water or lightly rake sulphur into the soil or mulch according to the pH. To avoid possible burning of the blueberry roots, delay the sulphur application until one month after applying the fertilizer. Foliar sprays of iron chelate can temporarily correct an iron deficiency. but annual sprays may be necessary.

Watering

Blueberries have shallow roots and require a uniform and adequate moisture supply throughout the growing season. A constant moisture supply ensures good plant growth and fruit production. Mulch reduces moisture fluctuations and significantly improves moisture conservation. As a guide, blueberries require at least 25 mm of water per week until early September.

Watering is essential whenever rainfall does not supply this amount. To encourage the plants to harden off before winter, do not water after early-to mid-September unless the soil becomes very dry. Avoid overwatering the plants or the roots will be injured and killed.

Blueberries respond well to trickle or drip irrigation. The system slowly adds small amounts of water each day directly to the soil around the base of each plant. Fertilizer can also be applied through the irrigation system. Both automated and manually operated systems are available. Several manufacturers sell trickle irrigation which can be used in blueberries.

Harvesting

Berries develop in clusters of 5 to 10 berries and ripen over a period of 4 to 6 weeks. Blueberries are often harvested too early. After the berries turn completely blue, leave them on the bushes for 3 to 7 days to develop their full flavor and sugar content.

To free both hands for picking, attach a basket with a belt at waist level. Gently roll the berries between the thumb and forefinger, removing fully ripe berries and leaving unripe berries for the next picking.

Berries that shrivel or split have probably remained on the bush too long. Harvested berries should be removed immediately from the sun and can be stored for a week or more in the refrigerator if kept dry.

Bird Control

Birds find blueberry fruit very attractive and can eat the entire crop of a small planting if it is not protected. To prevent losses, cover individual bushes or the entire planting with netting supported by a light framework, put up the netting just before the berries turn blue. The netting should not shade the plants or they will not flower well the following year. Remove the netting after harvest to avoid damage from winter ice and snow.

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